A Letter Home, Part I

     In response to my most recent blog posts, my Aunt Ev wrote to me to ask about the nitty-gritty of life here. She made some good points--when I write, I often take for granted the knowledge I have already gained either from living here or from having lived in Kampala, Uganda.  I often don't explain the "why" for many of the things I talk about.  In response to her good questions, I'll post a series of blogs on the day-to-day demands on my time and why we do what we do here.  

     Today's Question: What’s it like living in that climate?

     Today's Answer:  Here's the official answer, per this website here, "Rwanda has a temperate climate with temperatures of 25-30°C during the day; 15° at night throughout the year. Nights can be chilly in Nyungwe and the Virungas. Most parts of the Country receive in excess of 1, 000 mm of rainfall.  Rwanda experiences two rainy seasons- the long rains between February to June and the short rains between mid-September to mid-December. Dry months are January, July, and August to mid-September. The country can be visited throughout the year."

     But, that's not very illustrative, is it?

Sun drenches Lake Kivu

     It's warm here.  Not exactly hot.  I just came from 7.5 years in Washington DC, where summers feel like they average around 90% humidity and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. I hate humidity, but, I've come to tolerate it.   So, being here is really quite pleasant.  I feel lucky to be at such a high elevation (Kigali is at approximate 1,567 meters or 5,141 feet).  If we were at this particular equatorial location and at sea level, I'd be singing a different tune.  It would be HEWWWW-MID.

     Kigali, and Rwanda in general, is lovely.  When we arrived at the end of November, Rwanda was in one of its two rainy seasons.  It was glorious!  Every single day, there would be a deluge for about 15 to 20 minutes.  We were living in the Hotel Serena at the time, still looking for houses, so I had a view of the swimming pool and the rain would just dance as the drops fell on its surface!  So loud, so soothing, so calming.  Also, a great excuse to stay curled up inside and read a good book or watch some episodes of "The Big Bang Theory."


     As we entered January, it just stopped raining.  Totally.  Nary a cloud in the sky, nary a moment of threat.  No rolling thunder in the distance, no reprieve from the heat.  And it got hot; 85 - 90 degrees Fahrenheit, every day.  Fortunately, the mornings and nights here are very cool, and temperatures can plummet to as low as 55 F.  

The sun bakes our back yard in Kiyovu, Kigali, Rwanda

Chilly nighttime scene on Lake Kivu, Gisenyi, Rwanda

   With this heat comes sun.  Equatorial sun.  Mark is fair-skinned, genetically hailing from the highlands of Scotland.  I'm a bit more rugged with a teeny tiny bit of Iroquois blood, but I'm pretty burnable, too.  Sunscreen has become a must.  Staying indoors or in the shade between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. is almost required.  

Hiding from the sun, by the pool

     And that leads me to some of the more key changes that are occurring to us as a result of living in such a different place.  I have to change my habits.  As I just said, it's best not to sit, walk, workout, dance, etc. out in the sun.  So, we have to adjust.  We either purchase big-brimmed hats, slather on sunscreen every hour or just don't go outside.  It's frustrating.  This change, though seemingly small, is fundamental.  Add this to all of the other changes you'll soon learn about, and you'll realize just how much culture shock I am going through.  

Cool waters soothe in the afternoon sun

     So, the weather is, by and large, fine.  But it is a big change.  It affects us every day.  I find myself pining for snow, wishing I could curl up by the fire, kittens in my lap, blanket around my shoulders.  But, that ain't gonna happen.  So, we work with what we've got.  And the sun beats down for another day.