Genocide

     For every visitor to Rwanda, it is compulsory to visit one of the genocide memorials here---either in Kigali or outside of town.  Mark and I decided to visit Kigali’s Genocide Memorial early in January.  It is dappled with beautiful, thoughtful, life-affirming gardens.  

One of many roses in the Rose Garden, "a fragrant and peaceful memorial to Rwanda's lost loved ones"

More roses

Memorial gardens--these planters/sculptures represent something along the lines of "see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil"

But here, we have a monkey on his cell phone, calling the rest of the world to inform them of the tragedy of the genocide and that something must be done.

     The crypts are lined with trellises and vines; though it is harrowing to know that over 250,000 bodies lay under our feet, it did not immediately sink in for me.  

The top tier of crypts.  These descend down a hill and there are still more being dug as bodies are being discovered across the countryside.

My husband, Mark, absorbs the surroundings at the Genocide Memorial, Kigali, Rwanda.

     In hind sight, it was a two step process.  First, when we made our way through the museum portion of the memorial, I found myself, mouth agape, just staring at the various exhibits in disbelief.  I had seen “Hotel Rwanda" (haven’t we all?).  Sigh.   Mark and I spent over 2 hours inside this dimly lit building, absorbing more and more darkness with only slight tinges of hope.  

One of the Windows of Hope

Part of the Memorial Sculpture 

Clothing of the Dead

Clothing of the Dead

Identity Cards; Muhutu  e.g. Hutu, Mututsi e.g Tutsi

     When we left, emerging into the sun, Mark made this point: imagine, please, your favorite sports team (or musical show on Broadway, or opera in Paris, or just any large event with many people gathering).  For me, it is the Red Sox.  Fenway Park holds 37,493 people during night games.  Okay, now, recall my earlier statistic of 250,000 people, buried in the Kigali Genocide Memorial.  Double that.  Double that again.  The math makes that one million people; the number of people who perished in the genocide in 1994.  Now, back to our Fenway statistic: 37,493.  That goes into 1 million 26.67 times.  That’s right.  With 162 games per season, that is over 16% of the entire season’s games, or 27 games, all attendants dead.  

     Think about that for a moment.

     After Mark and I got back to our hotel that afternoon, I (stupidly) popped in a documentary  called “Keepers of Memory” directed by the founder of the Kwetu Film Institute, Eric Kabera.  I barely made it through the first hour and started bawling.  And bawling.  And bawling.  The pain was incredible, and I never ever lived through the actual events.  

     I think about the genocide pretty much every day.  I look at my new friends’ faces and think, “What are they dealing with, every day, at the back of their minds?  At the front of their minds?”  A few of my Muzungu (foreigners) friends, e.g. Americans, have told me that once you get to know your Rwandan friends, they’ll be very willing to talk about the genocide.  I can’t say I look forward to that, but as I look toward our world’s future, I want to learn more.  So I’ll ask them when the time is right. Reading about what’s happening in Myanmar/Burma is making me want to stay on top of this kind of thing a lot more.  Am I passionate about it?  I'm not sure.  But, life is just too precious to remain dispassionate, don't you think?  

Post Script:  I've kept this blog brief because of my lack of expertise.  I highly recommend visiting Rwanda to learn more but, barring that possibility, please feel free to read up on it.  Books can't give you all the truth, but they can certainly help give you a better rounded point of view.  Books and films I recommend:  The Media and the Rwanda Genocide, Keepers of Memory, We Wish to Inform You that Tomorrow We Will Be Killed With Our Families: Stories from Rwanda, and from a classmate at AU, As We Forgive.